Can I put magnesium or calcium chloride on my roof to melt the snow? I saw something on TV that says I can.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Putting De-Icers on a Roof
Lillian in NH
Can I put magnesium or calcium chloride on my roof to melt the snow? I saw something on TV that says I can.
While I’ve heard of people putting this on their roofs, I am strongly opposed to it. The argument is that calcium chloride isn’t corrosive like your typical salt (sodium chloride); but the fact of the matter is that the corrosiveness comes from the chloride. The issue also isn’t with the asphalt shingles (although calcium chloride will likely leave a white stain on your roof), but it’s the corrosiveness to metal. So, metal roofs are a big no-no for chlorides and asphalt roofing can be just as bad because the melting solution can creep under the shingles and begin corroding the galvanized nails. One other caution is the fact that as the melting snow filled with chloride comes off the roof, it enters your landscaping with detrimental affects to your foliage. So….my personal opinion is, don’t do it! If you absolutely have to put something on the snow & ice to melt it, look for some green solutions at greenicemelt.com.
Can I put magnesium or calcium chloride on my roof to melt the snow? I saw something on TV that says I can.
Low Water Pressure
Phil in MI
I have low water pressure only at my kitchen sink. What could the problem be?
Sounds like an obstruction. I would simply unscrew the aerator and then turn on the faucet. If you have good pressure, then the aerator screens are gummed up. Just drop the aerator in a glass of white vinegar and let it soak over night. In some instances, the supply line to the kitchen faucet may have a piece of crud or a small pebble blocking the line. In that case, you may need to remove the faucet stem and try to flush out any debris. Make sure you cut the water off under the sink first! Remove the stem, check the washers for wear & tear while they’re out. SLOWLY….turn the water on and let it bubble up and try to flush out the debris. If you turn it on full force, you’ll have a geyser in your kitchen. I’d be willing to bet that the majority of the time it’ll be a clogged up aerator.
I have low water pressure only at my kitchen sink. What could the problem be?
Sounds like an obstruction. I would simply unscrew the aerator and then turn on the faucet. If you have good pressure, then the aerator screens are gummed up. Just drop the aerator in a glass of white vinegar and let it soak over night. In some instances, the supply line to the kitchen faucet may have a piece of crud or a small pebble blocking the line. In that case, you may need to remove the faucet stem and try to flush out any debris. Make sure you cut the water off under the sink first! Remove the stem, check the washers for wear & tear while they’re out. SLOWLY….turn the water on and let it bubble up and try to flush out the debris. If you turn it on full force, you’ll have a geyser in your kitchen. I’d be willing to bet that the majority of the time it’ll be a clogged up aerator.Pet Stains on Hardwood
Lou in IA
We’re removing old carpeting with the intent on installing a new tile flooring on top of the existing wood. Unfortunately, we also discovered that over the course of time, the dogs have had several “accidents” and we don’t want the urine smell to travel up through the new floor. What are our options?
While there are several cleaners on the market, just remember that you’re talking about an organic stain, not chemical. So the product you use needs to be able to treat organic stains successfully. Basically, that means you need to use enzymes. Here are my suggestions. Soak a rag in hydrogen peroxide and place over the stain. This will pull the stain out of the wood and, in most cases, the smell. The miracle liquid white vinegar is another option. Vinegar neutralizes ammonia, although it won’t do much on the staining. If you don’t care what the floor underneath looks like, you can always completely seal the stain by painting it with a shellac-based primer, like B-I-N, from Zinsser.
We’re removing old carpeting with the intent on installing a new tile flooring on top of the existing wood. Unfortunately, we also discovered that over the course of time, the dogs have had several “accidents” and we don’t want the urine smell to travel up through the new floor. What are our options?
While there are several cleaners on the market, just remember that you’re talking about an organic stain, not chemical. So the product you use needs to be able to treat organic stains successfully. Basically, that means you need to use enzymes. Here are my suggestions. Soak a rag in hydrogen peroxide and place over the stain. This will pull the stain out of the wood and, in most cases, the smell. The miracle liquid white vinegar is another option. Vinegar neutralizes ammonia, although it won’t do much on the staining. If you don’t care what the floor underneath looks like, you can always completely seal the stain by painting it with a shellac-based primer, like B-I-N, from Zinsser.Smelly Bathroom
Janelle in WI
There is a foul odor emanating from under our bathroom sink. It only started a couple of months ago and the smell comes & goes. Help!
Unfortunately, this is one of those problems that could have several reasons why it’s happening. My first step would be to check the P-Trap under the sink. The trap keeps water in place that will prevent sewer gas from seeping back into the living space. If you find no clogs or leaks, my next step would be to check the vent stack. That’s the pipe that goes up through the roof. Let’s say the tub is draining, or the washing machine is draining. Since the vent is clogged, they’re going to pull air from anything nearby, like your bathroom lavatory. Run a plumbing snake as far down the stack as you can. Now…if THAT doesn’t do the trick, I would probably question if there may be a dead critter under the vanity, in the wall or under the floor. If you have a crawlspace under the house, it’s time to get dirty and go investigate. If you suspect under the cabinet or in the wall, I would invest in a digital inspection camera, like the SeeSnake from Ridgid or Ryobi’s TEK4 Inspection Scope.
There is a foul odor emanating from under our bathroom sink. It only started a couple of months ago and the smell comes & goes. Help!
Unfortunately, this is one of those problems that could have several reasons why it’s happening. My first step would be to check the P-Trap under the sink. The trap keeps water in place that will prevent sewer gas from seeping back into the living space. If you find no clogs or leaks, my next step would be to check the vent stack. That’s the pipe that goes up through the roof. Let’s say the tub is draining, or the washing machine is draining. Since the vent is clogged, they’re going to pull air from anything nearby, like your bathroom lavatory. Run a plumbing snake as far down the stack as you can. Now…if THAT doesn’t do the trick, I would probably question if there may be a dead critter under the vanity, in the wall or under the floor. If you have a crawlspace under the house, it’s time to get dirty and go investigate. If you suspect under the cabinet or in the wall, I would invest in a digital inspection camera, like the SeeSnake from Ridgid or Ryobi’s TEK4 Inspection Scope.Adding a Tile Backsplash
Roxanne in IN
Great question! In the “days of old” I’ve seen people remove the screws holding the electrical outlet in place, then use a longer screw and use nuts or washers to widen the gap…and that works fine. But it’s time to move into the Space Age. Almost any home center or hardware store will carry a very inexpensive electrical box extender. Basically, it’s an outlet box with no back. Make sure the power is turned off, remove the screws holding the outlet in place and pull the outlet away from the existing box. The extender slips right over the outlet and into the existing box and screw your outlet back in. You don’t have to remove a single wire. It’s one of those great little “Why didn’t I think of that” inventions.
If I add a tile backsplash to my kitchen, the electrical outlets will not be flush with the new tile, nor will the outlet plate screw back onto the outlet. What can I do?
Great question! In the “days of old” I’ve seen people remove the screws holding the electrical outlet in place, then use a longer screw and use nuts or washers to widen the gap…and that works fine. But it’s time to move into the Space Age. Almost any home center or hardware store will carry a very inexpensive electrical box extender. Basically, it’s an outlet box with no back. Make sure the power is turned off, remove the screws holding the outlet in place and pull the outlet away from the existing box. The extender slips right over the outlet and into the existing box and screw your outlet back in. You don’t have to remove a single wire. It’s one of those great little “Why didn’t I think of that” inventions.Sinking Cement
Chuck in FL
The walkway that butts up to my driveway is sinking. What can I do to stop any more of this?
Hope it’s not the kind of sink hole that swallowed up several houses down in FL back around 1980! In that case, drought conditions dried up several underground water pockets and the dry ground above collapsed. For a great majority of sinking sidewalks, during the construction process, perhaps a large root was just an inch or two under the ground. Over time, it rots away and leaves a void and the weight of the concrete will collapse the air pocket. Sometimes, the culprit is water flowing underneath that washes away the foundation soil. Either way, the only way to stop it from sinking further is to reinforce the base. If you have connections with a backhoe operator, this is easy. They can lift the edge of the slab up and you can shovel in gravel or crushed limestone to even out the surface. If you don’t have access to the heavy equipment, then you’re doomed to using…GASP… manual labor! Dig out around the sides to gain access below the walkway. A well-placed hydraulic jack can help. If push comes to shove and money is no object, you can hire a company to “mudjack” the walk into place. This involves drilling some holes in the concrete about 1 ½” in diameter and pumping in a cement or a gravel mixture to raise the slab back to level. The holes are then filled with concrete.
The walkway that butts up to my driveway is sinking. What can I do to stop any more of this?
Running Toilet Troubles
I installed a dual-flush toilet a couple of years ago and, for the most part, have been happy with it. I certainly felt better about not wasting as much water per flush. But, when the darn thing started the habit of "kicking in" to fill-the-tank mode every 15 minutes, I was a little worried. You see, the inside workings of a dual-flush was a little intimidating to me. After all, if there's a button instead of a lever, everything else must be different, too...right?
So, quite foolishly, I let this go on for several weeks, wasting goodness only knows how many gallons of water. Finally, I couldn't take it any more and decided to put the old handyman skills to the test. Admittedly, the center tower was different, in that it had the two buttons on top, but once I turned off the water to the tank and flushed out as much water as I could, I discovered that I could remove the tower by simply depressing two tabs near the bottom.
I knew the water could only be leaking out of the tank through the opening beneath the tower, since there was no water on the floor from a leak elsewhere. When I pulled out the tower, I discovered this interesting fault in the large washer:
Water blisters! Somehow, the outer membrane of the rubber washer had pockets of water trapped inside and those little bubbles prohibited the washer from properly sealing. Needless to say, I was disappointed in myself for letting this go on for so long without addressing it. But, there is a happy ending.
With the tip of a razor knife, I punctured all the blisters, removed all the trapped water, replaced the washer and tower, turned the water back on and it hasn't run once since. That was over a month ago, by the way.
The moral of this story is don't automatically convince yourself that you can't fix something just because it looks differently that the "norm." And, if you're just not sure where to begin....I'm just an email away!
I knew the water could only be leaking out of the tank through the opening beneath the tower, since there was no water on the floor from a leak elsewhere. When I pulled out the tower, I discovered this interesting fault in the large washer:
With the tip of a razor knife, I punctured all the blisters, removed all the trapped water, replaced the washer and tower, turned the water back on and it hasn't run once since. That was over a month ago, by the way.
The moral of this story is don't automatically convince yourself that you can't fix something just because it looks differently that the "norm." And, if you're just not sure where to begin....I'm just an email away!
Monday, February 21, 2011
Allen’s Top 10 Picks (+1) from The 2011 International Builder's Show
It’s that time of year again! The 2011 International Builders Show has come and gone, but not before I had a chance to walk the floors and take a look at all the amazing new products being offered to the building industry. As is always the case, let me preface my list by saying I’m fully aware that I have quite likely overlooked something truly amazing. Nonetheless, I’m confident that my Best of IBS is more than deserving. So, without further ado, my “Top 10 List +1” in no particular order:
The ODL Sliding Patio Door with Blinds Between the Glass
While having blinds between the glass in windows is nothing new, I haven’t seen the same feature in sliding glass doors. ODL made an attempt to offer glass inserts to retrofit existing doors, but they discovered that all the various glass door manufacturers had a tendency to have varied overall measurements in their door sizes, which made it next to impossible to offer a single product that would be successful. So, they created their own door! Here’s what I like about this door:
• With enclosed blinds, I’m never going to worry about dust. For me, that alone is worth the price of admission.
• Two easy slide controls operate the raising & lowering of the blinds and the opening & closing. By eliminating those dangling cords, you reduce safety risks.
• Since the blinds are enclosed, they move in-sync with the door. I love that!
• These doors come with an additional option of including a low-profile retractable screen door that I highly recommend.
CAMO Hidden Deck Fastening System
I became a fan of hidden deck fasteners long ago. But, typically, you had to use a system that was made for a specific brand of decking, and the boards usually had to have grooves cut in the sides for clips to fit into. The clips were then fastened to the joist. The CAMO system lets you attach practically ANY deck board (hardwood, cedar, composite, PVC) directly to the joist, and it does so with no pre-drilling and automatic spacing. The tool itself is called the Marksman. I got to try it out firsthand and it’s absolutely amazing how quickly it works. The model pictured above is the Pro version, but it’s the one I would purchase. However, for most homeowners who aren’t looking to build more than one deck in any given year, CAMO also is offering a DIY model in a kit that comes complete with the deck screws, specialty driver bit and the Marksman. Keep your eyes peeled for this one in the home centers. It’s a must-buy.
Therma-Tru Vented Sidelites
When the weather’s mild, I love opening up my doors & windows and letting in the fresh air. Unfortunately, not all doors have a visually appealing option of adding a screen. I’m thinking particularly of some double French doors and several styles of front entries. Therma-Tru really outdid themselves with this offering. Why didn’t anybody think of this before? Forget the screens and storm doors! The sidelites are hinged allowing you to welcome in the extra light and fresh air…the screens are easily removed for cleaning…and the sidelites feature multi-point locking gears. Therma-Tru’s real exclusivity, though, is the fact that they also offer decorative glass options, so you don’t have to settle for a one-size-fits-all industrial look to your doors!
Phantom Screens’ Distinction Series
As long as we’re on the subject of screens, I totally fell in love with the Distinction Screen at the Phantom Screens booth. Unlike many of their retractable models, the Distinction is a manual screen door. What makes it “distinct” is the fold-away pleated mesh that makes up the screen. It’s like an accordion, so it expands to cover the opening easily, but then folds away just as quickly and it takes up very little space. The bottom rail is almost non-existent, which is a true benefit when it comes to wheelchair access or eliminating a tripping hazard. And, unlike other retractables that have to be either all the way open or all the way closed, you can place the screen in any position. Add to that Phantom’s many custom color options and limited lifetime warranty, and I guarantee you’ll feel good about having this in your home.
Cliks by Daltile
To be perfectly honest, I saw this product before I went to IBS. Daltile’s PR agency sent me some samples to look over, and it seemed pretty interesting, but I really didn’t have the time to look further into the product. When I visited their booth at the Builders Show, though, I got the chance to really see the tile in practical applications and, even put some together myself. I love this stuff! Think floating laminate floor….but with porcelain. Real porcelain! Now, there was another company (which shall remain nameless) that came out with a similar product a few years ago and it got murdered by the public with consumer complaints. Cliks appears to have addressed all those concerns. It’s simple to install. No mortar. No grout. No mess. Realistically, you can tile a standard size kitchen in one afternoon and be done with it! The interlocking tiles make installation a snap (pun intended) and since the grout is already built into the tile pieces, there’s no three hours worth of mopping afterwards just to remove the grout film. At the moment, Cliks by Daltile is only available online at The Home Depot, but I’m hoping they’ll start carrying it on the shelves, too.
Spyder Products Bore-Blade and Grout-Out
Well, they did it again! Last year, Spyder Products introduced the Spyder-Scraper, an attachment for your reciprocating saw to turn it into a high speed floor scraper (or any other surface). It was an instant hit! This year, in addition to offering a larger size scraper, the Spyder team came up with two more attachments. Since I couldn’t decide which one I liked better, I’m putting them both on my list. Technically, that would make this my Top 10 plus 2….but who’s counting? The Bore-Blade is a recip blade with teeth on every side, which allows you to cut up, down, left and right without having to re-position your blade. With teeth on the very tip, it means no more drilling a pilot hole first and, thus, cutting down on your cutting time!
Speaking of cutting time, the Grout-Out attachment will shave tons of time off any tile removal, repair or re-grouting job. Covered in a carbide grit, snap this baby into your reciprocating saw and you’ll actually enjoy removing old grout. My bathroom is in good shape, but I’m re-grouting it just for the fun of it now! These are all durable, but inexpensive attachments, and they belong in your toolbox.
TurboShear Drill Attachment by Malco Products, Inc.
Fiber cement siding is rapidly growing in popularity as an exterior sheathing and it’s a great alternative to wood, especially with its high resistance to water damage. But, if you’ve ever tried cutting it, you know what a mess it is. I usually purchase the cheapest circular saw I can find, because the dust from cutting the fiber cement will ruin the saw. Ok, this might not be for everybody…but it should be! The TurboShear is an attachment for your cordless or electric drill, and you can easily cut through the standard 5/16” siding with the lightweight aluminum shear head. The lighter weight also means you can make the cut with just one hand leaving the other one free to steady your work. Other attachments are available for cutting ½” backerboard, asphalt shingles, metal and even rock! While this is a tool designed with the professional in mind, I’d love to see these available at tool rentals for the occasional DIY project.
The PlungeMAX No Mess Plunger
You know…there are some things you just don’t want to talk about. The unsavory mess that can be created by some plungers is one of those things. What caught my eye with the PlungeMAX is the fact that it won the Handy Innovation Award and the Handyman Club of America Seal of Approval. As one of the Handyman Club’s Charter Members, I know they only recognize products that stand out in design, features and performance. Here’s the theory: the bellows design rests on the rim of the toilet, so it never touches the foul water. The bellows action is created as the other end is forced downward by the toilet lid. This forces a blast of air 25 times the volume created by a standard plunger, releasing the clog. And, since the PlungeMAX never touches the water, it can be folded up and stored quickly & easily.
Ok, this next pick may be a little hard to explain. This is a concrete roof tile that can be installed on either commercial or residential buildings. But this tile has an added extra ingredient that helps mitigate airborne pollutants. That’s a fancy way of saying it eats smog! Actually, it’s more of a transformation process by means of the embedded surface additive that acts something similar to a catalytic converter. As smog particulates of nitrous oxide drift down and land on the roof, sunlight creates a photo catalyst that, essentially, nullifies the smog particles into a safer substance. Whenever it rains, the new material is washed safely away. But the technical reasons really aren’t all that important. What matters is that it’s been proven to work, and a standard roof size of 2000 square feet can mitigate the same amount of nitrogen oxide produced by one car driving up to 10,800 miles.
The PV Solar Shutter
I really enjoyed stopping at this booth and chatting with the folks from Plug-N-Save Energy Products. Here’s an interior shutter custom made for your windows or doors that has solar panels embedded on one side to harvest the energy of the sun during the daytime and pump that solar energy right into your home’s electrical system. It’s a pretty simple concept, too. The more energy you pump into your home, the less you use from the grid. Let’s say you only cover a patio door. In an average week with nominal sunlight, you could produce about 21,000 watts of power, saving on average over $25 each month on your power bill. In addition to the solar savings, these interior shutters are good-looking, made from renewable bamboo and use no VOC stains or oils.
================================
And, just for fun is my Plus One Choice:
Panasonic EP-MS40GK Luxury Massage Chair
Every year I see the massage chairs, but I’m always too busy walking the floors checking out the building products to sit down and enjoy them. This year, I indulged. My initial reaction has always been, “How cheesy can you get?” After all, I’ve experienced the neck massage pillows from Wal-Mart, and it’s nothing even close to an actual massage. Needless to say, I didn’t expect much. The minute I hit the button, though, my whole world perspective changed! I think Panasonic sews a tiny little massage therapist into each of these chairs. Starting at the neck, traveling all the way down to your feet and back again, you’ll experience Nirvana. You have several levels to choose from (I went for the full 15-minute wash, wax & lube. I’m pretty sure it rotated my tires, too.) The leg & foot massager is discreetly built into a fold-away ottoman. The only complaint I have is the lime green color. But, to be honest, my eyes were closed the whole time, so I didn’t notice it. Is it worth $2500? I guess that’s part of the “luxury” of the chair. And, quite frankly, after a long day of walking the concrete floors of the Orange County Convention Center….it was worth it.
The ODL Sliding Patio Door with Blinds Between the Glass
• With enclosed blinds, I’m never going to worry about dust. For me, that alone is worth the price of admission.
• Two easy slide controls operate the raising & lowering of the blinds and the opening & closing. By eliminating those dangling cords, you reduce safety risks.
• Since the blinds are enclosed, they move in-sync with the door. I love that!
• These doors come with an additional option of including a low-profile retractable screen door that I highly recommend.
CAMO Hidden Deck Fastening System
Therma-Tru Vented Sidelites
Phantom Screens’ Distinction Series
As long as we’re on the subject of screens, I totally fell in love with the Distinction Screen at the Phantom Screens booth. Unlike many of their retractable models, the Distinction is a manual screen door. What makes it “distinct” is the fold-away pleated mesh that makes up the screen. It’s like an accordion, so it expands to cover the opening easily, but then folds away just as quickly and it takes up very little space. The bottom rail is almost non-existent, which is a true benefit when it comes to wheelchair access or eliminating a tripping hazard. And, unlike other retractables that have to be either all the way open or all the way closed, you can place the screen in any position. Add to that Phantom’s many custom color options and limited lifetime warranty, and I guarantee you’ll feel good about having this in your home.Cliks by Daltile
Spyder Products Bore-Blade and Grout-Out
Well, they did it again! Last year, Spyder Products introduced the Spyder-Scraper, an attachment for your reciprocating saw to turn it into a high speed floor scraper (or any other surface). It was an instant hit! This year, in addition to offering a larger size scraper, the Spyder team came up with two more attachments. Since I couldn’t decide which one I liked better, I’m putting them both on my list. Technically, that would make this my Top 10 plus 2….but who’s counting? The Bore-Blade is a recip blade with teeth on every side, which allows you to cut up, down, left and right without having to re-position your blade. With teeth on the very tip, it means no more drilling a pilot hole first and, thus, cutting down on your cutting time!
TurboShear Drill Attachment by Malco Products, Inc.
The PlungeMAX No Mess Plunger
You know…there are some things you just don’t want to talk about. The unsavory mess that can be created by some plungers is one of those things. What caught my eye with the PlungeMAX is the fact that it won the Handy Innovation Award and the Handyman Club of America Seal of Approval. As one of the Handyman Club’s Charter Members, I know they only recognize products that stand out in design, features and performance. Here’s the theory: the bellows design rests on the rim of the toilet, so it never touches the foul water. The bellows action is created as the other end is forced downward by the toilet lid. This forces a blast of air 25 times the volume created by a standard plunger, releasing the clog. And, since the PlungeMAX never touches the water, it can be folded up and stored quickly & easily.
Ok, this next pick may be a little hard to explain. This is a concrete roof tile that can be installed on either commercial or residential buildings. But this tile has an added extra ingredient that helps mitigate airborne pollutants. That’s a fancy way of saying it eats smog! Actually, it’s more of a transformation process by means of the embedded surface additive that acts something similar to a catalytic converter. As smog particulates of nitrous oxide drift down and land on the roof, sunlight creates a photo catalyst that, essentially, nullifies the smog particles into a safer substance. Whenever it rains, the new material is washed safely away. But the technical reasons really aren’t all that important. What matters is that it’s been proven to work, and a standard roof size of 2000 square feet can mitigate the same amount of nitrogen oxide produced by one car driving up to 10,800 miles. The PV Solar Shutter
I really enjoyed stopping at this booth and chatting with the folks from Plug-N-Save Energy Products. Here’s an interior shutter custom made for your windows or doors that has solar panels embedded on one side to harvest the energy of the sun during the daytime and pump that solar energy right into your home’s electrical system. It’s a pretty simple concept, too. The more energy you pump into your home, the less you use from the grid. Let’s say you only cover a patio door. In an average week with nominal sunlight, you could produce about 21,000 watts of power, saving on average over $25 each month on your power bill. In addition to the solar savings, these interior shutters are good-looking, made from renewable bamboo and use no VOC stains or oils.================================
And, just for fun is my Plus One Choice:
Panasonic EP-MS40GK Luxury Massage Chair
Waterproofing a basement
Chris in NY
I have cement floors and block walls in my basement. What do you suggest I use to waterproof it?
I’ve found that using the word “waterproof” in conjunction with “basement” is almost an oxymoron. If the outer walls of the basement were not properly sealed during construction, excess moisture is pretty much inevitable. However, there are some pretty good sealers on the market. One that I came across recently that has some very impressive reviews is from Sealmark Coatings out of Donora, PA. They specialize in coatings to protect against water intrusion. But this is a 50/50 endeavor. What I mean is, 50% is in the quality of the product and the other 50% is in making sure you apply it correctly. This, in itself, can be a challenge since a lot of the waterproof coatings can be like spreading pancake batter. Just make sure you read the instructions carefully. There are a lot of elastomeric products that are decent, although my experience has been that you’ll have to re-apply coatings over time. The newer rubber/acrylic compounds have better lasting quality.
I have cement floors and block walls in my basement. What do you suggest I use to waterproof it?
I’ve found that using the word “waterproof” in conjunction with “basement” is almost an oxymoron. If the outer walls of the basement were not properly sealed during construction, excess moisture is pretty much inevitable. However, there are some pretty good sealers on the market. One that I came across recently that has some very impressive reviews is from Sealmark Coatings out of Donora, PA. They specialize in coatings to protect against water intrusion. But this is a 50/50 endeavor. What I mean is, 50% is in the quality of the product and the other 50% is in making sure you apply it correctly. This, in itself, can be a challenge since a lot of the waterproof coatings can be like spreading pancake batter. Just make sure you read the instructions carefully. There are a lot of elastomeric products that are decent, although my experience has been that you’ll have to re-apply coatings over time. The newer rubber/acrylic compounds have better lasting quality.
Removing Drywall
John in AL
Is there an easy way to remove ¼” sheetrock from an original wall sheathed with T&G paneling?
I’ve got good news and bad news. The good news is that ¼” drywall is going to be easy to remove. The bad news is that you’ll have all kinds of nail or screw holes in that beautiful paneling. Before you get started, think about the big picture. Once you remove any drywall, you don’t want to spend another two hours cleaning up. You’re going to kick up a fair amount of dust, so make sure you close any cabinets, move any nearby furniture and cover it with plastic. Close off and/or tape any HVAC registers. I also like to install a new filter for the return air knowing that it’s going to be thrown out after I finish. You may even consider totally masking off your work area with plastic. This will keep your after-work-is-done clean up to a minimum.
Next, remove any electrical outlet and switch plate covers, followed by any moulding, such as baseboards, crown and window trim. Once this prep is complete, you’re ready to tackle the drywall. Unlike the TV shows that give a guy a sledge hammer and say, “Have fun,” you don’t want to pulverize anything. Your best tool is going to be a flat pry bar. Typically, you can find a seam that was covered by the trim work and very gently work the flat bar between the back of the drywall and the face of the paneling. If you can’t find a seam, you can create a gap using a sharp utility knife, but make sure you retract the blade so only a ¼” is showing! You don’t want to gouge the paneling underneath. Using leverage, you’ll be able to use the flat pry bar to pull the drywall away from the paneling in large pieces. Hopefully, whoever installed the rock didn’t use any glue on the back! Once all the drywall is removed, your next task is removing all the nails or screws. Use a sand-able wood putty to fill all the holes.
Is there an easy way to remove ¼” sheetrock from an original wall sheathed with T&G paneling?
I’ve got good news and bad news. The good news is that ¼” drywall is going to be easy to remove. The bad news is that you’ll have all kinds of nail or screw holes in that beautiful paneling. Before you get started, think about the big picture. Once you remove any drywall, you don’t want to spend another two hours cleaning up. You’re going to kick up a fair amount of dust, so make sure you close any cabinets, move any nearby furniture and cover it with plastic. Close off and/or tape any HVAC registers. I also like to install a new filter for the return air knowing that it’s going to be thrown out after I finish. You may even consider totally masking off your work area with plastic. This will keep your after-work-is-done clean up to a minimum.
Radiant Floor Heating
Lyle in MI
I have a concrete slab foundation and want to install laminate flooring. Is there a way for me to install something to heat the slab under the flooring without tearing up the concrete?
There are several manufacturers out there who have systems that are placed directly on top of the concrete slab. Some look like wire fencing that you just roll out over the floor. I don’t particularly like them, because I don’t think they’re very energy efficient. Don’t get me wrong. I’m sure there are some good radiant systems out there, but you need to do your homework to find out how much electricity they use over any given period of time. From what I’ve read, though, the hydronic types have the greater blessings of the EPA studies. Again, there are several manufacturers. One that I can personally vouch for is from Uponor. You put their plywood subfloor down first. It has pre-cut “S” shaped grooves in it just the right width for plastic tubing. The tubing connects to a separate water heater & manifold that will keep the hot water circulating through the tubing. Once you install the system, you can put your new flooring right on top.
If you already have your laminate installed, you're out of luck. However....never say never. Check out some of the radiant heat throw rugs! It's not as good as having the system under the floor, but it's a viable alternative!
I have a concrete slab foundation and want to install laminate flooring. Is there a way for me to install something to heat the slab under the flooring without tearing up the concrete?
There are several manufacturers out there who have systems that are placed directly on top of the concrete slab. Some look like wire fencing that you just roll out over the floor. I don’t particularly like them, because I don’t think they’re very energy efficient. Don’t get me wrong. I’m sure there are some good radiant systems out there, but you need to do your homework to find out how much electricity they use over any given period of time. From what I’ve read, though, the hydronic types have the greater blessings of the EPA studies. Again, there are several manufacturers. One that I can personally vouch for is from Uponor. You put their plywood subfloor down first. It has pre-cut “S” shaped grooves in it just the right width for plastic tubing. The tubing connects to a separate water heater & manifold that will keep the hot water circulating through the tubing. Once you install the system, you can put your new flooring right on top.
If you already have your laminate installed, you're out of luck. However....never say never. Check out some of the radiant heat throw rugs! It's not as good as having the system under the floor, but it's a viable alternative!
Discovered mold on bottom of roof decking in attic
Dan in PA
Our home only has a 3” wide soffit. As a result, the venting is very poor. We have a massive mold problem in the attic on the rafters and underside of the roof decking, but only on one side of the house (it is a gable roof). Only the front side has this problem (it faces west). What are your suggestions?
Definitely sounds like a ventilation problem. Instead of moving the air from the soffit to the ridge and continuing that exchange, pockets of moist air are getting trapped. Since only one side is getting the mold, it sounds like it may be a side that is under more shade throughout the day. That will create a temperature difference on the underside of the decking and, as a result, the moisture in the trapped air is condensating more readily on that inside slope. Since you only have 3” soffits, unless you can increase the amount of open holes for venting, you’ll need to resort to mechanical help. Attic ventilation fans would help move that moist air out of the attic without giving it time to find a home on the rafters and decking. These fans can be hard-wired into place with an automatic cut-on as determined by temperature. You can also install solar-powered attic fans, although my experience has been that most solar models aren’t powerful enough to be very effective.
Our home only has a 3” wide soffit. As a result, the venting is very poor. We have a massive mold problem in the attic on the rafters and underside of the roof decking, but only on one side of the house (it is a gable roof). Only the front side has this problem (it faces west). What are your suggestions?
Definitely sounds like a ventilation problem. Instead of moving the air from the soffit to the ridge and continuing that exchange, pockets of moist air are getting trapped. Since only one side is getting the mold, it sounds like it may be a side that is under more shade throughout the day. That will create a temperature difference on the underside of the decking and, as a result, the moisture in the trapped air is condensating more readily on that inside slope. Since you only have 3” soffits, unless you can increase the amount of open holes for venting, you’ll need to resort to mechanical help. Attic ventilation fans would help move that moist air out of the attic without giving it time to find a home on the rafters and decking. These fans can be hard-wired into place with an automatic cut-on as determined by temperature. You can also install solar-powered attic fans, although my experience has been that most solar models aren’t powerful enough to be very effective.
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